Reply With Quote
Can you use a work computer? Oh well, if not you could just pick up a DVD drive from Altex or Frys. I hate DVD drives, I never use mine.
The only driver you'll want to install from CD is possibly the network driver, though since you're using Windows 10 it's likely already going to be installed by default. Then you can download the rest from Asus. Don't use the driver CD that came with your video card, just download the newest drivers from nvidia's website. You definitely don't want old drivers since they make new drivers with optimizations for each new game that comes out. Also don't update the BIOS, that's one install you don't want to with. If something goes wrong updating BIOS (I had a rolling blackout hit right when I was doing mine one time) you might have to desolder the BIOS chip from the board, get a new one, and solder it onto the board.
Can you use a work computer? Oh well, if not you could just pick up a DVD drive from Altex or Frys. I hate DVD drives, I never use mine.
None yet. Read the bit in the MB manual so, I will diagnose it if/when it comes up.RandomGuy, when you power on are you getting a number in the debug LED on the bottom of the board? I have circled it in the image below:
If so, what number is it showing?
The part that bothers me though is the small circuit board on the back. (the one on the middle to the left of the SSD) I think I got it hooked up right, as my config looks like this. I just worry that I didn't hook it up to the MB. Not sure how information gets to/from it. I have it hooked up to power but...
Probably just buy one from best buy or something.
Boss has about 8 slightly older computers sitting around in an old cubicle that would probably be perfect for wife/kids, and even a source of extra parts. I asked him how much for two or three of them, but he hasn't gotten back to me. He is fixing to give them to Goodwill.
Oh man, that's a mess, you got configured wrong man.None yet. Read the bit in the MB manual so, I will diagnose it if/when it comes up.
The part that bothers me though is the small circuit board on the back. (the one on the middle to the left of the SSD) I think I got it hooked up right, as my config looks like this. I just worry that I didn't hook it up to the MB. Not sure how information gets to/from it. I have it hooked up to power but...
That circuitboard is a fan splitter. I would just completely ignore it and plug my fans into the motherboard, you'll get better control over them. If you use that fan controller all your case fans speeds will be based on the temperature of the cpu, which probably isn't a great thing since your cpu is going to run very cool on a Kraken X61 water cooler. I would just disconnect everything from that. That fan controller is something really nice to have if you're using a cheap motherboard that doesn't have a lot of fan headers, but your motherboard is very high end and has them.
Unplug that SATA power cable going to the fan splitter. It's confusing and the Phanteks case manual messed up here, but you don't want to plug that in to provide power to the splitter whether or not you use the splitter. If you do use the splitter you'd be plugging it into a PWM header that will provide power to it (but don't, there is no good reason to use that splitter with the board you have). That power cable is there for people using older computers that don't provide PWM fan control for the CPU.
Those black and yellow cables you have going up the back right side are probably not supposed to be there. What do the connectors look like:
1. An 8-pin connector that doesn't split into two?
2. An 8-pin connector that splits into two 4-pin connectors?
3. An 8-pin connector that splits into a 6-pin with a 2-pin that can be folded back?
In case 1 or 2 it's the ATX 12V cable your cpu needs for the power supply to power it. That will plugged in where I have circled in red below:
In case 3 they're cables for powering the graphics card.
For the fans your Kraken X61 is probably going to be plugged into the two fan headers I have circled in blue above. One of those headers will be called CPU_FAN, the other will be CPU_OPT. Since these are PWM headers it's almost certain that's where you'll want to plug your watercooler for the cpu into, but definitely follow the instructions that came with it. For the rear 140mm fan the case came with, I'd plug it into the fan header I have circle in green. For the front 200mm fan the case came with, I'd plug it into the fan header I have circled in orange.
Look and see if the belt is broken. If so a rubber band will suffice for the time being. I've used o-rings as well.
ing awesome. That is exactly the information I needed.Oh man, that's a mess, you got configured wrong man.
That circuitboard is a fan splitter. I would just completely ignore it and plug my fans into the motherboard, you'll get better control over them. If you use that fan controller all your case fans speeds will be based on the temperature of the cpu, which probably isn't a great thing since your cpu is going to run very cool on a Kraken X61 water cooler. I would just disconnect everything from that. That fan controller is something really nice to have if you're using a cheap motherboard that doesn't have a lot of fan headers, but your motherboard is very high end and has them.
Unplug that SATA power cable going to the fan splitter. It's confusing and the Phanteks case manual messed up here, but you don't want to plug that in to provide power to the splitter whether or not you use the splitter. If you do use the splitter you'd be plugging it into a PWM header that will provide power to it (but don't, there is no good reason to use that splitter with the board you have). That power cable is there for people using older computers that don't provide PWM fan control for the CPU.
Those black and yellow cables you have going up the back right side are probably not supposed to be there. What do the connectors look like:
1. An 8-pin connector that doesn't split into two?
2. An 8-pin connector that splits into two 4-pin connectors?
3. An 8-pin connector that splits into a 6-pin with a 2-pin that can be folded back?
In case 1 or 2 it's the ATX 12V cable your cpu needs for the power supply to power it. That will plugged in where I have circled in red below:
In case 3 they're cables for powering the graphics card.
For the fans your Kraken X61 is probably going to be plugged into the two fan headers I have circled in blue above. One of those headers will be called CPU_FAN, the other will be CPU_OPT. Since these are PWM headers it's almost certain that's where you'll want to plug your watercooler for the cpu into, but definitely follow the instructions that came with it. For the rear 140mm fan the case came with, I'd plug it into the fan header I have circle in green. For the front 200mm fan the case came with, I'd plug it into the fan header I have circled in orange.
Thanks, yet again.
OpenGL sucks on AMD. I hope Vulkan really takes off so I can dump Windows in a couple of years, DX12.
Well, have my eye on a 1ms 144hz monitor at best buy. may have to wait another paycheck. already a bit over budget, I don't want to eat into the emergency cash reserves to finish the build.
What monitor? You can probably do better at newegg since there is no sales tax. You get everything finished? If so do a Firestrike bench and post a link to the results.
Well, I got everything working. Didn't know that the CPU itself had to have a separate power connection, so it initially was just dead. Had to re-read your post above twice, but had the DERP moment, found the connector in the pile and got it running.
Not currently overclocked, and haven't messed with the settings or anything.
This post is the first thing I have done on the computer. Up next... installing chrome, steam, etc.
heh, couldn't sleep, thinking about computer, glad I put a bit more effort into it.
That's why I have been asking you on for a Firestrike score, it will give a good indication on if everything is configured and working properly.
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/..._download.html
It would also be good to see what your cpu temperatures are like. I use this program called RealTemp to monitor temperatures.
https://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
You could post what your temperatures are at idle (eg you're not doing on your computer) and then what they're like doing the Small FFT test on Prime95.
http://www.mersenne.org/download/
The Small FFT test in Prime95 puts a full cpu load on your system and will get your cpu about as hot as it possibly can get. It's a good way to test if you have your cooler installed properly. If your cpu temperature ever goes above 90 Celsius shut Prime95 down ASAP, you might need to reseat your cooler. You won't do any damage below 100C and at 100C your cpu should automatically throttle down its power. Make sure you click Stop from the Test menu to stop the execution though, because if you click the X at the top right of the Window it will just put it in the background. You should run the tests and report the temperatures you read after say 20 minutes or so. Any time I buy a new CPU I stress test it with Prime 95's Small FFT test for at least 3 hours or so while using CPU-Z (http://www.cpuid.com/downloads/cpu-z/cpu-z_1.76-en.zip) to make sure it's running full speed the entire time (no thermal throttling).
downloading now. Will post in a bit
Well right now the radiator is pretty much room temp. the top of the cpu cooling system is barely warm. Keep in mind I haven't overclocked it yet.
The cage is completely open, as I haven't finished tying everything down and closing it up, so I could access everything.
Also bought a corsair KB and mouse at best buy.
The Prime95 Small FFT test should generate a decent amount of heat on a 130W processor running balls to the wall. I would definitely run it to see if your cooling is on right and to make sure your chip is working properly. Your cpu should stay at the full hexacore turbo (I think it's 3.4 GHz at stock) even while running for hours. You can use the CPU-Z program I mentioned before to check the clockspeed of your cpu. When your cpu is under light load it will scale back to as low as 800 MHz or so to save power, but under 100% load it should be running at its full speed.
Here is a screenshot running RealTemp and CPU-Z together.
It would be worthwhile to note what voltage CPU-Z is showing for "Core Voltage" while running Prime95 Small FFT as well as the temperatures shown by RealTemp.
okaaay. Firestrike score 12725 better than 86% of scores.
Graphics 15248
physics 13374
combined 5501
Graphics Card
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070
Vendor
ZOTAC
# of cards
1
SLI / CrossFire
Off
Memory
8,192 MB
Core clock
1,987 MHz
Memory bus clock
2,003 MHz
Driver version
10.18.13.6839Processor
Intel Core i7-5820K Processor
Reported stock core clock
3,300 MHz
Maximum turbo core clock
3,396 MHz
Physical / logical processors
1 / 12
# of cores
6
Package
LGA2011-v3
Manufacturing process
22 nm
TDP
140 W
General
Operating system
64-bit Windows 10 (10.0.10586)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. X99-A
Memory
16,384 MB
Module 1
4,096 MB G.Skill DDR4 @ 2,130 MHz
Module 2
4,096 MB G.Skill DDR4 @ 2,130 MHz
Module 3
4,096 MB G.Skill DDR4 @ 2,130 MHz
Module 4
4,096 MB G.Skill DDR4 @ 2,130 MHz
Hard drive model
500 GB Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
Can you post the URL for the results? That's a very low graphics score for that GPU, it should be around 19000 or so. Did you install the Nvidia drivers through Windows Update instead of from Nvidia? Or did you use the drivers on the disk? That's around the graphics score you would get from a heavily overclocked GTX 980, and the 1070 is worlds more powerful than the 980.
The CPU score (eg the physics score) seems pretty normal.
To give you an idea, here is my Firestrike.
Your graphics score should be way higher than 123% of mine, it should be more like 150% or so (I'm using a slightly overclocked GTX 970).
If you have GeForce Experience installed (you should if you installed the driver from Nvidia's website) you can find your driver version from the Driver tab. As you can see, I don't have the newest one installed yet.
After doing a little more research, the graphics score to expect should be in the neighborhood of 17500 in Firestrike with a 1070 at stock, 19000 is more for one with an overclock. It's probably something that can be fixed with a driver reinstall, though I would do it with DDU.
http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/...-download.html
And then install the driver from Nvidia's website.
Let windows update handle it. Ran it a couple of times more, and the subsequent scores came down to about 10,700
Don't have a functioning CD drive in the house.
Graphics Score
14 883
Physics Score
9 929
Combined Score
3 656
(edit) Yeah, I know I need to use the drivers from the manufacturer. just wanted to get system up and running first. fine tuning will have to wait until next weekend. Don't have a lot of time to spend on it this weekend. Some old, dear friends are coming over this afternoon, and we need to finish cleaning the house to the wife's specs. As excited as I am, I am happier to see the old friends, who we haven't seen in years.
So, the bulk of the fine tuning, will frustratingly have to wait until after work and next weekend. Still have to do some car maint, yard work, and cleaning.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
