Windows 10 question

[Wild Cobra]

OK, so I cloned my Windows 7 professional to another HD, then put upgraded to windows 10 on one of them. I didn't realize my used space was so large though. I was going to clone it to the SSD I bought but after cleaning it up, I still have 260 GB used. My plans are that when I get the PCIe 4 lane adapter I bought for the M.2 SSD, to then clone my windows 10 to the SSD, but I would have to do a bit of file manipulations, and should probably delete all the software and reinstall it later. I don't like how dirty this might make the registry and leftover files though.

Will Microsoft allow a clean install on the SSD when I already have the Win 10 professional?

If not, any suggestions on the best combination to remove programs, files, etc?

If I can't do a fresh install, I might just buy Win 10 Home. I don't know the differences, but I don't think I use any of the professional features.

If I go with the dirty clone, I will copy my personal directories, leave only my admin account, and remove all my programs added except Office Business. I also have an Office 365 account for my other computers, but I don't want to risk losing Access.

I really don't want to spend much more money on this PC, that's why I only got a 256 GB SSD for it. Glad I got the 4 lane M.2, even though I now need a PCI adapter for it.

I guess practice makes perfect...

[ElNono]

You likely still have your old version of Windows on the drive, including past updates, etc. To get rid of that, do this:

- Open up Disk Cleanup on Windows 10
- Click on "Cleanup system files"
- Look for the "Previous Windows Installations"

It should tell you how much room that's taking and if you check it and select "OK", it will be deleted. You can also look for any other stuff there that might be taking up room and that you can clean up.

Be warned though, that after you do that, you can't roll back your installation to Windows 7 (if you didn't like Win 10).

[Wild Cobra]

You likely still have your old version of Windows on the drive, including past updates, etc. To get rid of that, do this:

- Open up Disk Cleanup on Windows 10
- Click on "Cleanup system files"
- Look for the "Previous Windows Installations"

It should tell you how much room that's taking and if you check it and select "OK", it will be deleted. You can also look for any other stuff there that might be taking up room and that you can clean up.

Be warned though, that after you do that, you can't roll back your installation to Windows 7 (if you didn't like Win 10).

Already did that. I was close at 289 GB before I cleaned it up.

I still have Win 7 on the original HD. I did this to the cloned drive.

I think I'm left with removing profiles and programs. Then installing some of them on a regular HD.

Any idea how big Office Business is?

[Wild Cobra]

I'm thinking I might just spend the extra money and put one of those 512 GB Samsung 950 pro SSD cards in. It's about 3 times faster than 850 256 GB I have.

http://www.harddrivebenchmark.net/hd...+NVMe&id=10841

[Wild Cobra]

The easy thing for me to do when I get the adapter card is to relocate my do ents folder before cloning to the SSD. I just looked at it. Didn't realize till now I have 121 GB in it...

Makes sense. I have several 35 mm negatives scanned at 3344 x 2128, and those files are 20 MB for each photo.

[DJR210]

Had to delete this POS off my music laptop.. I run a program called Traktor Pro 2, and it ran BEAUTIFULLY on Windows 7.. Upgraded and it became a popping, audio dropping, latent mess.. Had to scour the Interwebs to find a Windows 7 torrent that had good feedback.. problem resolved and ended up getting rid of the ty bloatware that came stock on the laptop

[baseline bum]

Had to delete this POS off my music laptop.. I run a program called Traktor Pro 2, and it ran BEAUTIFULLY on Windows 7.. Upgraded and it became a popping, audio dropping, latent mess.. Had to scour the Interwebs to find a Windows 7 torrent that had good feedback.. problem resolved and ended up getting rid of the ty bloatware that came stock on the laptop

Dude, Microsoft publishes SHA1 hashes for their isos, so if you find the same SHA1 hash for the iso you pirate you know it's the original Microsoft iso. No need to read the feedback.

[DJR210]

Dude, Microsoft publishes SHA1 hashes for their isos, so if you find the same SHA1 hash for the iso you pirate you know it's the original Microsoft iso. No need to read the feedback.

That just went right over my head bruh, no ing idea what you're talking about rn tbh

[Reck]

That just went right over my head bruh, no ing idea what you're talking about rn tbh

Basically if you see SHA1, its the original, so no need for feedback to see if its fake.

What I got from it.

[baseline bum]

That just went right over my head bruh, no ing idea what you're talking about rn tbh

SHA1 is a hash function. Basically a function that is almost impossible to invert, so you can't inject anything into one of their files and have the SHA1 checksum come out the same. Microsoft publishes SHA1 checksums for their iso files so you can compute the SHA1 checksum to make sure there weren't any errors in the download. Alternatively, if anyone takes that iso and adds a keylogger, ransomware, or anything like that, it will change the SHA1 checksum to something different so you know you don't have the original Microsoft iso file when the SHA1 checksum you compute for the file is different from the one they publish.

Microsoft has a program called FCIV that computes SHA1 checksums for any file.

[baseline bum]

That just went right over my head bruh, no ing idea what you're talking about rn tbh

Here is what I mean about Microsoft publishing the SHA1 hashes for their isos:

https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/sub...dex=0&FileId=0

Then you can use Daz Loader (only get it from the my digital life forums though) or KM o for activation (Daz only for Win 7 and you can't use a GPT par ion on your boot drive, KM o works for 7, 8, 8.1, 10).