Surfer rides 80ft wave

[Trill Clinton]

https://twitter.com/Rainmaker1973/status/1028579511221268480?s=19

[Spurtacular]

Reminds me of the book 'Endurance: Shackleton' Incredible Voyage'. They had to ride a small boat through waves and swells larger than that even.

[LaMarcus Bryant]

Vaya con dios

[pgardn]

Reminds me of the book 'Endurance: Shackleton' Incredible Voyage'. They had to ride a small boat through waves and swells larger than that even.

Swells, not breaking waves like that. You die in that.

If that was not a storm, I wanna know how waves off Portugal get that big?
Its not like Hawaii or Australia where you get very deep water swells with long wavelengths meeting shallower water thereby decreasing the wavelength and increasing the amplitude.

Notice he rode the wave low. Falling from 80 ft, yikes. But, having water drop on you from 80ft, not good either.

[pgardn]

And explained... Holy shit this is incredible.

Dont read it Spurter, it’s MSM and fake news.
Liberal NPR.

And... You won’t understand it anyways.
Its as bad as global warming.

https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2013/01/31/170753700/portugals-monster-the-mechanics-of-a-massive-wave

[Spurtacular]

Swells, not breaking waves like that. You die in that.

If that was not a storm, I wanna know how waves off Portugal get that big?
Its not like Hawaii or Australia where you get very deep water swells with long wavelengths meeting shallower water thereby decreasing the wavelength and increasing the amplitude.

Notice he rode the wave low. Falling from 80 ft, yikes. But, having water drop on you from 80ft, not good either.

200 ft swells can still sometimes crash like waves, tbh.

This is the extremely tame version. Imagine being on a tiny open boat for a couple weeks against something way worse than this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoIiIvmRohM

[pgardn]

200 ft swells can still sometimes crash like waves, tbh.

This is the extremely tame version. Imagine being on a tiny open boat for a couple weeks against something way worse than this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoIiIvmRohM

Those are the wind blowing the top of the swell over.
Thats different than a swell from very deep water entering shallower water causing the energy in the wave to actually scrape the bottom thus the wave gets taller as the wavelength gets shorter. Completely different fromdeep open water swells getting blown over.

read the article. And then I will give you another that explains why waves in the surf grow so huge.

[Spurtacular]

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