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Why is Darrin trying to impress Winehole?
Short, sweet, and to the point.
Why is Darrin trying to impress Winehole?
Darrin's trying to give me pointers on style, I think.
Apparently he hates "big words" like grandiosity, mawkishness and propriety.
That they describe him so aptly must be galling.
Jeez y'all, these aren't even SAT words.
Last edited by Winehole23; 07-10-2011 at 01:38 PM.
Whinehole in Goodwill Hunting
Well, just plugged in an Ecosmart Daylight White A19 V2 CW 120. 13 watt 60 watt equivalent, 4900k, 950 lumens. Picked it up at Home depot for $36.97. Looks as bright as the 60 watt equivalent CFL it's next to.
Darrin using other people's hackneyed thoughts to try to put down a person who is intellectually superior to himself and inadvertently showing himself to be the same kind of lord as the one found (wait for it...) in the clip he posted!
Bravo, Darrin
Never seen a LCD as bright as a CFL or bulb yet... I'll have to check it out
What does this have to do with light bulbs, Darrin?
What I'm disappointed about is that theoretically, LED's are about twice as efficient as florescent. However, both 60 watt equivalents use 13 watts. there must be too much circuitry involved keeping the LED's at their proper voltage through voltage changes. They work best with a smooth current control.
Now the LED is rated at 950 lumens, the CFL only 800. Makes it a little more efficient.
More accurately, the FEIT Daylight 60 CFL says it uses 210 mA on the base. The LED says it uses 125 mA. This doesn't make sense, unless CFL ratings are a lie. If we use the nominal 120 VAC for both, the CFL uses 25.2 watts, the LED uses 15 watts. However, the base of the LED bulb says 14 watts rather than the 13, as the package says. Do CFLs get to ignore their ballast wattage when they rate the watts?
Wish they were more accurate. Damn marketing.
What ever circuitry drives the LED, the base gets very hot. Too bad the current control isn't more efficient.
The base of the light bulb? Interesting. I wonder if that is due to the single high (relatively speaking) wattage. None of the stage lights I mentioned before get hot, but most are arrays of lower wattage LEDs.
I use mostly the 75 watt equivalent CFL's in my place. However, here are links to the 60 watt eq. Feit CLF, and 60 watt eq. LED:
Ecosmart ECS A19 V2 CW 120
FEIT BPESL13T/D
This 100 watt equivalent is sweet:
Feit PBESL23TM/D
I bought 2 cases of each the 60W, 75W, and 100W eq. Feits when Lowe's had them on sale for $0.99 each some years back.
The LED's I bet stay pretty cool. It's the electronics that drives them that gets hot. Your stage lighting LED's will have these controls at the dimmer controls. Probably in a decent size box with a fan.
LED's are Light Emitting DIODES. A diode has a constant breakdown voltage. If your voltage is less, it will not light. If it is more, it will burn out instantly. No room for error, therefore a current control of some sort is necessary for them to maintain their voltage under changing conditions. I'm sure the circuitry will get better as compe ion increases. I am frankly surprised they get as hot as they do. I understand it though. Maybe I should say disappointed they didn't use a better circuitry design.
The link I previously posted has this picture:
Those cooling fins do get hot.
No fans in any of the effect or spot lights I've seen. Of course the size of the lights probably facilitates passive cooling, but that doesn't make any spot on the case even warm to the touch where incandescents that do the same job would sear flesh.
I think you missed my point. A standard replacement bulb for home use will have all the circuitry inside the bulb. Stage lighting uses a dimmer. That dimmer is good enough to control the current from minimum to maximum without damaging the LED's and will have the heat at the dimmer. Not the bulb, with built-in circuitry.
If I'm a manufacturer of a bulb, to make it last and acceptable. I have to make it produce light between maybe 90 volts to 140 volts, and even ing conditions as commercial power can be erratic. In a controlled sstage lighting setup, I can already have a good regulated power supply, minimizing the need to work under broad uncontrolled fluctuations. The fluctuation is controlled with intent. Let's say each LED had a breakdown voltage of 2.7 volts, and I put 30 of them in series. I now have a breakdown voltage of 81 volts. The simplest way to allow for the 125 mAmps at 120 volts is to use a dropping resister. I need to drop 39 volts at 125 mA under this assumed 30 LEDs x 2.7V. That would take a 312 ohm resister in series. Now at a power strained brownout condition of 90 volts, I am dropping 9 volts across a 312 ohm resistance. This makes my current only 29 mA, and my lighting is going to be noticeable dimmer. However, at a 140 volt fluctuation, I now have 59 volts to drop. That 189 mA of current, and my lighting will be more than 50% brighter, and will burn out if more than a short duration. This simple resister generates heat. At the nominal 120 volts, it will generate 4-7/8 watts. Not much, but when you confine it, it can get toasty rather fast. These bulbs more likely use a circuit that maintains constant current within a specified voltage range. Again, I am simply surprised they are so inefficient.
I think you missed my point. The bulbs and dimmers are both internal to these lights, and the lights don't get hot from either. I'm sure it's a combination of the wattage involved with each bulb/dimmer and the size of the lights.
Bulbs meant to be dimmed and from a stable power source will not have the need for circuitry like home LED's do. The dimmer isn't in the bulbs, it is just that the bulbs are made to be dimmable.
You have no minimum current to worry about since you will dim to zero lighting. All you need is a variable source that will not exceed their maximum current capacity. That's why they develop almost no heat.
They are made for that purpose, right?
That LED light you have is dimmable. The way it works is that it's built internally from a bunch of smaller LEDs and a flood type of cover. The controller on the light detects the voltage coming in, and turns off LEDs from the bunch to 'simulate' the dimming.
Large area LED lights are prohibitively expensive right now (specifically the layering), so you won't see lightbulbs made of a single LED diode and the size of a bulb anytime soon.
White light emitting LEDs are also still being actively researched and developed to bring a higher intensity. The trick with white LEDs, be it phosphor or RGB, is that it's generated either by combining multiple colors or enlarging the light wavelength (ie: Blue light on phosphor LEDs). Part of either process washes up a bit the intensity and obviously requires more energy to produce the final white color.
Of all the things I expected to do with my life, "participate in an extended conversation about light bulbs" is not one that would have made the list.
Do carry on.
As much as people like to focus on larger aspects of energy, currently the small things like this are the fastest and easiest way to cut down consumption. Its like the air in tires situation. People see the energy crisis as something we will solve with nuclear reactors or solar farms or gigantic wind turbines but making sure your home and vehicle are energy efficient and goes a long ass way in reducing your waste.
yep, Manny, the fastest and quickest was to "provide" 100Bs barrels of oil is conservation, not by high-risk drilling 3+ miles down or all over the Arctic.
Of course, the carbon-extractors/refiners will make sure they run civilization rear/into resource depletion where their payoffs will be in the $10Ts.
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