If you want to check your fuel line/fuel pump, put your key in the on position, disconnect it from your fuel filter, (point it away from your face) and have somenoe press the gas. If fuel comes up then you're line and pump are fine.
Fuel filter, sticking with my first instinct.
If you want to check your fuel line/fuel pump, put your key in the on position, disconnect it from your fuel filter, (point it away from your face) and have somenoe press the gas. If fuel comes up then you're line and pump are fine.
I'm getting it looked at tomorrow afternoon and maybe worked on - I'm at work now.
I'm also considering getting a newer, automatic vehicle.
Have you no respect for good potential slapstick?
Blaze could have lived up to his screenname.
As long as somebody puts the video on YouTube and plays Yakety Sax behind it, it's comedy gold.
Chong: Did you check the air in the tires?
Last edited by Johnny_Blaze_47; 01-23-2007 at 11:23 PM.
My mom's car wouldn't start AFTER she went to the store and bought groceries. Had to tow it to the mechanic...he diagnosed the problem was the battery cables.....
(POS) Geo Metro
Maybe you drove over a puddle and your wires got wet.
Last edited by Re-Animator; 01-24-2007 at 12:06 AM.
What about the thingy that breathes the emissions out, or some damn thing? Pretty expensive part, just can't remember what it's called.
If it was the starter it would have jumped, right?
When you turn the key to start it, does it crank over and WANT to start, but just won't?
If that's the case, it's got to be something in your fuel line.
What kind of truck is it?
It's a 1999 Ford Ranger.
When I turn the key, it doesn't want to start. It clicks and that's it.
^That kinds sounds like a starter. But I dunno if that would cause your car to quit while it was running.
I had this exact problem happen with my vehicle last week.
died on the way to work, battery had plenty of power - would not start.
no turn over. Alternator tested fine, starter too.
Come to find out it was the timing. the water pump was leaking onto my timing and the belt went.
new tensioner, belt and pump is eating my paycheck alive this week... BTW- all things I replaced last March with after market parts.
don;t buy after market parts.
and I was towed by Allied too. small world.
As far as the parts/labor go, I trust all of that to my dad (also my mechanic) since that's what he's done his whole life.
Ruiz Automotive on Jamestown Drive just off 183 in Austin in case any Austinites need some repair work.
Before you replace the battery, alternator, starter.....check the solenoid. It's the cheapest thing to buy at Auto Zone and if it turns it wasn't it, then you are only out 10 or so dollars.
Of course you know you can have the alternator and starter checked at Auto Zone, etc.
Ford's with Manuals have a good deal of problems with timing chains. I wouldn't be suprised if that was it. However, you'd notice the engine turning over really fast if that was the case, not the clicking.
If it were your alternator, you would not have been able to listen to radio, because your battery would be dead.
See, JB, once you're taken they start bitin'!
It's getting picked up tomorrow (my truck, not me).
UPDATE: Engine blew up...well, so to speak.
Crankshaft locked and that's all she wrote. Engine's being rebuilt.
Oh, and I lost $35 cash somewhere today, so that's another how-do-ya-do.
Plus, I spent 30 minutes going over my old cell phone bills for that federal tax credit and after putting in all my amounts of taxes by going through months of PDFs (and it totalling about $50 in taxes), I still only got the standard $30 deduction.
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