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if he isnt overclocking then theres no need for a K-cpu let alone a Z-series motherboard...
Yeah, you will build the , then add a few things like a good mouse and keyboard, a good mic or headset and you're looking closer to 1500.00.
Here's another build for the 12-13 range.. This one will get you a z87 motherboard, a Core i7 4770K which is probably the best non-enthusiast processor available, a new GTX 770 4GB model.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1P1yX
if he isnt overclocking then theres no need for a K-cpu let alone a Z-series motherboard...
Here's what I've got for you.
This is the robust yeoman's do it all wonder:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1P6wo
And this is the "Gaming vs wife not kill me" build, which is actually going to be really damn close in performance for a lot less:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1P6I6
Pretty happy with the 2nd build, got you amazing performance for just over a grand. The first build's a bit more solid throughout, though. Better case and so forth.
If you REALLY want to save your money, you can wait another 6 weeks. Black Friday = prices bottom the out. I got 8 gigs of ram for $25 last year. I got a $120 PSU for $55, and a $265 video card for $150. Really, it's up to you.
If money is an issue, I think that second build will really impress you though. It's got great performance across the board, a solid (if unspectacular) case, and no really "cheap" components. Check to see if you can get windows through your work or university. Could save you $100 on the OS as well. Additionally, if you wanted to pair the 2nd system with another 7950, it would be an absolute badass machine for $1200:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1PbEA
Last edited by Cry Havoc; 10-15-2013 at 03:12 PM.
That build looks pretty good but you selected an aftermarket cooler for overclocking, and chose the "non-k" version of that processor. 10 bucks more you get the unlocked multiplier and can have a use for that cooler.
Might as well wait until Black Friday, it's right around the corner. You will be able to stretch that budget and end up with a better finished product.
You've gotta assume he will be overclocking eventually. The Z-series is a must for easy overclocking the Intel's.
Once the novelty of the new PC wears off and you want to see what your computer is capable of through benchmarking, you don't want to be stuck with no options. I get a considerable boost in benchmark scores with my GPU overclocked with my processor up from 3.8 to 4.5. Thinking of pushing mine up to 4.7 and seeing how the temps treat me while playing Arma 3.
Last edited by DJR210; 10-15-2013 at 06:14 PM.
TBH, I put an aftermarket cooler on ANY processor, because stock coolers suck. They're horrible. But yeah, I'd go with a K here. Actually given that the AMD is so much cheaper I just like the second build a whole lot more.
Yep.Might as well wait until Black Friday, it's right around the corner. You will be able to stretch that budget and end up with a better finished product.
Except that overclocking his processor isn't going to wield much in the way of increased framerates in games. He might get 2-5 frames better, but that's about it. Games are still massively GPU reliant. The time and effort to OC a processor for gaming benefits is a serious case of diminishing returns.You've gotta assume he will be overclocking eventually. The Z-series is a must for easy overclocking the Intel's.
Once the novelty of the new PC wears off and you want to see what your computer is capable of through benchmarking, you don't want to be stuck with no options. I get a considerable boost in benchmark scores with my GPU overclocked with my processor up from 3.8 to 4.5. Thinking of pushing mine up to 4.7 and seeing how the temps treat me while playing Arma 3.
Not much effort required. Change the multiplier in the BIOS to whatever overclock you want. Done.
With consoles hitting soon, the standard for gaming is gonna get more resource demanding. Good to have the ability to get more performance when you may need it.
Except you need to research how high to clock it, how high to clock the BIOS, and what to do if you start getting errors/artifacts. If you aren't tech savvy, it can be an issue.
If you can put together a Lego set, you're tech savy enough to build a computer. Heck, most computer parts are designed to be idiot proof and can only be put together the right way.I'm not tech savy and have never built a computer, but damn I want to try it
Maybe I'll learn a few things along the way, then I will start developing .... dammit hopefully I will build an Iron Man suit running on Jarvis 2.0
I've never overclocked anything but I might at some point. I am in no real rush, probably will just wait until November. GTA doesn't come out until next year neither does the division. BF4 is the only thing I would miss out on launch but only by a month.
You may even be able to find a vid card bundled with BF4 on newegg FYI, they do that a lot.
That soon after a release? That would be nice.
Except for static zapping them.
If you're looking to be a seriously compe ive gamer, 120/144hz is much more important than having an extremely accurate monitor from a color gamut perspective. And if you aren't, neither are necessary.
Yes, but what's the point of a fast system if the monitor gives you twice the lag in milliseconds?
I did notice several errors in my quoted text. The 16:9 is wide TV formato and I incorrectly typed 19:10... should be 16:10 for wide computer format. Then I said wide TV twice on the 30" size comparisons when the second should have read "wide computer."
Wow...
Just how tired was I when I typed that? More errors yet, as I look at it.
Yikes...
I'm not looking any more...
120/144hz monitors are probably going to be for gaming and thus will have no more than 2-3ms. I think mine is 2, the one I linked is 1ms, I think.
Don't confuse pixel response time with input lag. Also refresh rate is not an indicator of either. The right thing to do is simply do your homework and see what you're getting.
Input lag is probably the most real-life important factor for gaming, and anything around or under 1 frame (16ms) is pretty much excellent.
Here's a online list of different display input lag:
http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/
It's easy and as long as you monitor your temps there is really no reason not to test the performance of your PC. Also, if you like BF you need to try Arma 3. I built my PC for that game.
The GPU brands always give out awesome games with cards, AMD more so than Nvidia IMO. I expect BF4 to be packaged in w/ AMD cards as EA and DICE are using that new Mantle technology from AMD.
Considering discharging static is as easy as touching the case, you'd have to be a stupid mother er to fry your PC like that.
I was hesitant about getting a 7ms IPS but I can't notice any ghosting tbh. Nice color w/ the IPS as well.
Agree, but such systems generally are faster all the way thru.
Without going into too much detail, this is basically what each amounts to:
- Refresh rate: frequency at which all pixels of a display are told to display a specific color. In other words, how long it takes for a full frame to draw. Usual rates include 60Hz, 120Hz, 240Hz, etc.
- Pixel response time: How long it takes a single pixel to change from the current color to another color then back to the original color. Poor response times produce a visible smearing. Response times over 5ms are noticeable by the human eye. Usual values range from 8ms to 2ms.
- Input/Display lag: How long it takes from a signal (or frame data in digital) that just arrived to the device to appear on the screen. This varies greatly depending on the kind of post-processing a monitor/set does to a signal (hdcp, scaling, up-framerate conversion, ghosting reduction). Some sets include a 'game mode' setting that disables most post-processing to reduce lag for gaming. Usual values range from 5ms to 80ms (yeah, that's a full 5 frames delay).
So what's the verdict? Waiting until BF?
I will wait until the end of November (cyber Monday?). I have no real reason to be in a rush. The games I want to play aren't out yet and I will only be late to the BF4 party by a month. If I get better prices from waiting that would be nice, but I wouldn't have missed out from anything if I spend the same as ordering now.
Just anecdotally, last year I found much better sales on Black Friday than on Cyber Monday. I'd jump on the best deals on BF and then pick up anything else that didn't go on a crazy discount on CM.
Best deals on video cards with BF?
I might end up posting here to confirm before I buy everything if you don't mind. Last thing I want to do is buy something that isn't compatible and have to return something.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150665
7970 for $250 AR
You can create the build at pcpartpicker.com and it will tell you if there are any parts that are not compatible. It also tells you where to find the particular item at the cheapest price.
As for your question about the best card to include BF4, I don't think you are gonna get one. The current promotion for AMD cards is the "Never Settle" promotion that allows you to select 3 games from the list they have pre-selected. The Never Settle deal runs from 8/15/13-12/31/13, and depending on the cost of the GPU you pick will determine which tier you qualify for. A 7970 for example would allow you to select 3 games from the following: Tomb Raider, Hitman Absolution, DMC, Sleeping Dogs, Far Cry 3, Far Cry 3: Blood Dragon, Deus Ex, Dirt 3, Saints Row IV, Dirt: Showdown or Sniper Elite. I would assume a BF4 promotion for AMD wouldn't be available until this one is finished.
For Nvidia on the other hand (which is the better GPU brand IMO) they are offering the Batman Arkham Origins promotion currently. This promotion started August 30th, but they have not determined the cutoff date according to their site.
XFX and other brands like HIS, PowerColor, etc have more negative feedback than a brand like MSI, or EVGA, or even ASUS. Yes, the cost today is less, but what about potential issues down the road? Stick to a more reputable GPU brand IMO. This card is part of the Never Settle promotion and does not include BF4 which was his request.
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