Omg!!! CPS BILL!!

[CubanMustGo]

Anyone have a guideline as to which bulbs work best in what rooms? I'm brand new to this homeowner stuff, so any tips would be great.

One thing you will notice is that there are different brightness/spectrum bulbs. There is soft white, 'daylight' (kind of bluish), and an in-between. Different people like different things so it's hard to recommend which one is right for you.

CFLs will say "100 watt equivalent" and then list the actual wattage - it's about a 5:1 ratio. I've mixed and matched brands, never really had much of a problem with any of them. We use them in ceiling fans, lamps, overhead bulbs, bathroom fixtures, and even outside too. It is a good idea, tho, to use the same brand in multi-light fixtures as bulbs can differ slightly in size, shape, and output.

They do take a little while to come up to their full brightness, especially if it's cold.

And, of course, you want to be very careful because if they break there is a small amount of mercury that requires slightly special cleanup.

I second desflood's solar screen recommendation, especially where you have windows that have no trees to diffuse the incoming light.

[Mark in Austin]

You program it during the day for around 78-80 or so ... don't let it get too hot, because it'll have to expend extra energy cooling everything back down.

Our house is 2 years old now, and the difference in our bill compared to our older home has been pretty incredible. Thank goodness for better built, heavily insulated homes.

So to state the obvious, if you keep the thermostat at 78 when you're home, then using SW's strategy you could bump into the mid-80's when nobody is there.

However, here's how to tell what to set it at:

Day 1: before you leave in the morning, turn off the system. Check and note your meter when you leave. When you get home turn it down to where you typically like to keep the temp.

Day 2: Before you leave the next morning, set your thermostat at 90 degrees. Again, check your electrical meter and write down your usage before leaving. When you get home, turn it down to the same temp as you did the night before.

Day 3: Before you leave set the 'stat like SW suggested above - 5-7degrees above where you typically have it set when you get home. Again, check and note the electrical usage at the meter. When you get home, turn it down to the your usual setting.

Day 4: Before you leave, check your meter and write down the usage again. You should now have three days worth of data:
-Total energy used in 24 hours when turning off the a/c completely when nobody is at home.
-Total energy used in a 24 hour period when thermostat is turned up to 90 degrees when nobody is home.
-Total energy used in a 24-hour period when the temp is set at 5-7 degrees above normal when nobody is home.

Assuming similar weather and fairly consistent electricity use across all three days other than the a/c differences, this will allow you to make sure you are actually using as little electricity as possible. Homes can vary quite a bit in how to deal with a/c. Spend a couple days investigating what works best for your particular home and you can maximize what you save. (Generally, the smaller the square footage of a new home, the more likely it is that simply turning off the system is the best bet to save money since the smaller the space, the less time it takes to cool it down in the evenings)

I'd also recommend getting a good window film installed on all windows that get afternoon summer sun:

www.huperoptik.com has a line of ceramic windowfilms that are almost invisible on the windows - not the highly reflective or purple looking ty stuff on old windows. These new films can reject up to 67% of solar energy. The Huper Ceramic 30 rejects 61% of solar energy and actually is slightly less reflective than a standard double paned window. It costs about $8.00/sf installed, I believe. If you're going to be in the house a while, it is worth it.

Also, simply planting a tree to shade your a/c unit will help out. (Make sure it is far enough away that it doesn't block airflow - check the owners manual to see how much clear space is recommended around your a/c unit.) It's the same concept as standing in the shade for us on a hot day. The cooler the air is that th unit draws in, the less energy it has to spend cooling it down to the temp you want it inside.

[Mark in Austin]

One thing you will notice is that there are different brightness/spectrum bulbs. There is soft white, 'daylight' (kind of bluish), and an in-between. Different people like different things so it's hard to recommend which one is right for you.

CFLs will say "100 watt equivalent" and then list the actual wattage - it's about a 5:1 ratio. I've mixed and matched brands, never really had much of a problem with any of them. We use them in ceiling fans, lamps, overhead bulbs, bathroom fixtures, and even outside too. It is a good idea, tho, to use the same brand in multi-light fixtures as bulbs can differ slightly in size, shape, and output.

They do take a little while to come up to their full brightness, especially if it's cold.

The higher quality the CFL, the less time it will take to reach full brightness. Some people will try the store-bought CFL's and say they suck in comparison to incandesants. Usually it's because they're used to a bulb with a higher k (color tempreatue) measurement. Sometimes it is hard to find different color tempreatures in stores - often the only options are the standard CFL's at around 3000k, or CFL's labled "full spectrum" - that have a higher k value and approximate natural sumlight. www.bulbs.com carries a really wide range 2700k - 6500k. Personally I like my lights to be closer to daylight - around 4700-5200k. (true daylight is at 6500k but for me anything higher than 5100 looks too blue-ish for me)

One other thing to consider - especially in lamps where there is only one socket - you might think about jumping up in wattage - if you're replacing a 60w bulb, try using a 75w CFL. It still uses much less energy than a regular bulb, but provides a little more brightness.

[SpursWoman]

Personally I like my lights to be closer to daylight - around 4700-5200k. (true daylight is at 6500k but for me anything higher than 5100 looks too blue-ish for me)

We started replacing ours a few at a time ... and started with my laundry room light because it just happened to be the first to burn out. We got one with the bluish-tint ... and it felt like I was going to get mugged in there. I don't like that one either.

We've gotten the better ones since then, and you really can't tell the difference in lighting. We're doing all of the recess cans in the kitchen next.

[timvp]

I must be a different type of primate because I can't survive in any temperature over 65. For me to sleep it needs to be 62 or under. I usually keep the thermostat between 58 and 60 ... as anyone who has been to a GTG can attest to.

I actually like it colder but this is about as cold as I can keep it without Kori turning into ice.

[CubanMustGo]

I must be a different type of primate because I can't survive in any temperature over 65. For me to sleep it needs to be 62 or under. I usually keep the thermostat between 58 and 60 ... as anyone who has been to a GTG can attest to.

I actually like it colder but this is about as cold as I can keep it without Kori turning into ice.

Damn richers.

[Mark in Austin]

I must be a different type of primate because I can't survive in any temperature over 65. For me to sleep it needs to be 62 or under. I usually keep the thermostat between 58 and 60 ... as anyone who has been to a GTG can attest to.

I actually like it colder but this is about as cold as I can keep it without Kori turning into ice.

Sounds like you're making a substantial payment every month. You might look into a geothermal system - they drill several holes 200 feet or so down in the ground, then circulate water through pipes in the holes - the earth naturally brings the water to ground tempreature - the water is used to cool the air first, then a smaller, much less energy intensive a/c unit finishes off the job if needed. They're pretty expensive up front, but with a bill as high as yours sounds like it might pencil in several years. The other big thing that might help you guys is a radiant barrier and more insulation in the attic - it would reduce the constant load on the a/c unit.

[Kamnik]

I must be a different type of primate because I can't survive in any temperature over 65. For me to sleep it needs to be 62 or under. I usually keep the thermostat between 58 and 60 ... as anyone who has been to a GTG can attest to.

I actually like it colder but this is about as cold as I can keep it without Kori turning into ice.

I think we are from the same line of apes.

People look at me weird when im in short sleeves or in a shirt when everyone wears jackets and pulovers.

I basically dont buy anything with long sleeves because I noticed i never wear it after.

[Mr Dio]

OK, just 2 more big bills to go! Sep & Oct then we get some decent ones.

[RuffnReadyOzStyle]

As a general comment, try to work out where your electricity is going, then adjust your behaviour accordingly. Best way to do it is a home electricity audit, which you can do yourself - look it up on the web. I could also send you the method I used if you like. Once you know where it's going, you have more power over your consumption.

As a rough guide, in Australia: 60% of household energy goes to space heating/cooling, 20% to water heating, and the rest to appliances (although high-usage appliances like plasmas and computers with beefy specs, and the sheer number appliances, is changing this a bit). Of course, that will differ depending on your climate. However, in general lighting accounts for only about 4% of the average household's energy consumption. Oh, and appliances more than a few years old will be sucking down 8-10% of their operating load when on standby, so try turning them off at the switch. Also, things like modems which run all the time even when not in use should be turned off when you don't need them. And clothes dryers use a lot of electricity... I could go on, but the information is all out there, and y'all are savvy internet users, so go find it! It'll save you money!

Part of the reason is CPS raised their KWH rate, but the majority of it is the ever-changing "Fuel ADjustment" charge. You pay about $.06 per KWH standard rate of CPS, but the alst two months the "Fuel Adjustment" charge has been $.03 per KWH. So you are basically paying $.09 per kWH.

That "Fuel Adjustment" is basically a moving tax for the City of San Antonio. I can't believe they get away with it.

6c/kWh!? If so, that's the cheapest electricity in the world! Below, Cuban calculated his to be 18.5c/kWh. Check your bills - it will tell you what you are paying per kWh.

Oh, if only it worked that way! We've got an attic so full of insulation we can't even use it, keep every light in the house off all day and have our thermostat set up at 78 degrees... our bill went down to $240 last month. We weren't even in the house for three of those weeks; we were out of state!

? I don't understand what you are trying to say. Your bill went down because you were out of state and thus not using electricity. Makes sense.

Just moved into a new house. My wife and I never had central air before. Is it normal for us to leave it off during the day(while we're at work) and to not need it when we sleep(it's freaking freezing at night). Should we feel lucky? It's a programmable thermostat, but our house seems to keep a cool temp without the AC.

Normal? What is normal? Not using it is good whether it's normal or not - it's saving you money! Sounds to me like your house was built with some degree of proper thermal architecture in mind.

Replace 'em. Cost savings add up fast.

For those of you who are still unhappy with your CPS bill, go calculate it at 18.5 cents per kWh. That's what my "compe ive" utility hit me with last month. 1500 kWh, $290. With the AC at 78-82 and 86 for three weekends where we were out of town.

Do you have peak pricing, or a standard rate?

I'm amazed at how reliant the world has become on A/C. Sure, it's nice, but 15 years ago when it was only in shopping malls, how did we all live? Personally, I love A/C (I like it cold like LJ!), but I choose not to have it at home - instead I freeze hand towels in the freezer and use them to keep myself cool during the hottest days. I like to feel the four seasons.

You know the biggest problem in all this - build houses properly, and orient them properly on the block, and YOU WILL NEVER NEED HEATING OR COOLING. Thermally efficient architecture has been around for decades, and the principles are simple and effective in any climate.

I'm not one for conspiracy theories, but might there be some collusion between house designing/building companies, heating/cooling appliance companies and electricity/gas utilities? Build the houses so they need heating/cooling and everyone makes a lot more money in the long-run! I doubt that, I think it's just lax regulation of design standards, and no incentive in the market for house builders to get it right, but it makes you think...

[desflood]

? I don't understand what you are trying to say. Your bill went down because you were out of state and thus not using electricity. Makes sense.

I'm trying to say that $240 is an outrageous bill for an energy-efficient home that wasn't even lived in for most of the month. Maybe I didn't go about saying it the right way

[Kori Ellis]

I'm amazed at how reliant the world has become on A/C. Sure, it's nice, but 15 years ago when it was only in shopping malls, how did we all live?

I've had central air in my house since I was a child. Was it uncommon then (30-something years ago)? Because everyone I know had it except a couple people had swamp coolers.

[CuckingFunt]

I've had central air in my house since I was a child. Was it uncommon then (30-something years ago)? Because everyone I know had it except a couple people had swamp coolers.

Just depends on where you live. Central heat/air was becoming standard in homes as of the late 50s/early 60s, so if you've always lived in neighborhoods that age or newer it would probably be common for everyone on the block to have had an air conditioner. My parents have always gravitated toward older homes and older neighborhoods (and I've picked up the habit as an adult), however, so at age 30 I've never lived in a home with central air. , I think I was 19 before I even lived in an apartment with a wall air conditioner.

[Kori Ellis]

Just depends on where you live. Central heat/air was becoming standard in homes as of the late 50s/early 60s, so if you've always lived in neighborhoods that age or newer it would probably be common for everyone on the block to have had an air conditioner. My parents have always gravitated toward older homes and older neighborhoods (and I've picked up the habit as an adult), however, so at age 30 I've never lived in a home with central air. , I think I was 19 before I even lived in an apartment with a wall air conditioner.

That makes sense. I rented one older house in L.A. that didn't have central air. Other than that, I think every apartment/house I've ever lived in has had it.

I just thought it was odd to say that A/C was only in shopping malls 15 years ago.

[SpursWoman]

I've had central air in my house since I was a child. Was it uncommon then (30-something years ago)? Because everyone I know had it except a couple people had swamp coolers.

As far back as I can remember, we've always had it, too.

instead I freeze hand towels in the freezer and use them to keep myself cool during the hottest days. I like to feel the four seasons.

If all I had to worry about was my own comfort I'd walk around my house naked and eat cereal for dinner ... but we've all become too accoustomed to not waking up in pools of sweat. Because we only have 2 seasons here ... hot, and really ing hot.

[JudynTX]

I must be a different type of primate because I can't survive in any temperature over 65. For me to sleep it needs to be 62 or under. I usually keep the thermostat between 58 and 60 ... as anyone who has been to a GTG can attest to.

I actually like it colder but this is about as cold as I can keep it without Kori turning into ice.

I can attest to that. The couple of nights we spent the night (from being smashed @ the GTG) you froze our ass off. But my sweetie kept me warm.

[Melmart1]

I was born in 1976 and I don't remember a time without a/c. Some of the places we lived that were small had window units but most had central a/c. I can't imagine living in San Antonio without it. I know from experience that fans and opening windows just doesn't really work too well long-term. That's a good way to get heat stroke.

As for home builders and electric companies being in cahoots, I doubt that is the case. I think home builders just put up as quickly and cheaply as possible to make a buck and don't give a about things like thermal efficiency or even whether they are built properly. That's the problem of the person who buys it.

[Bartleby]

I grew up in SA and we didn't have any AC in our house until I was in high school, but somehow I was used to it.

But to get back to the original question (sort of). I live in PA and my electric bill last month was for 477 KWH X $.034 for distribution charges and a $.046 generation charge. With eight cents in state tax surcharges added on, the total came out to $52.39.

Of course, that's offset by the fact that I'm going to get slammed this winter with the cost of heating oil being what it is.

[Mark in Austin]

Oh, if only it worked that way! We've got an attic so full of insulation we can't even use it, keep every light in the house off all day and have our thermostat set up at 78 degrees... our bill went down to $240 last month. We weren't even in the house for three of those weeks; we were out of state!

Something is seriously wrong if your bill was that high with you gone three weeks. I would recommend you hire somebody to come out and do a really good energy audit. With that kind of bill, it would be money well spent. Make sure you get and check references before you hire them - you don't want an amateur (or worse a fool) trying to provide this service to you. Some of the better auditors will be LEED certified - the card will say LEED AP after their name. Here's what they should definitely check for:

-Check for leaks in the A/C ductwork.
-Leaks or only partial cooling in/by the A/C unit - unit not functioning properly.
-Use a "smoke test" to check for leaks around doors, windows, and outlets.
-Confirm insulation is adequate.

[I Love Me Some Me]

So I'm moving into a house that has duel AC units (one upstairs, one downstairs)...will that increase or decrease my energy bill?

[nsrammstein]

My cousin's CPS bill was $589.95

Just switch over to TXU

[CubanMustGo]

My cousin's CPS bill was $589.95

Just switch over to TXU

Yeah, then it'll be $800.

[cool hand]

solar panels

[CharlieMac]

You'd be suprised at how much the higher-ups at CPS travel to "conferences"

[Mark in Austin]

So I'm moving into a house that has duel AC units (one upstairs, one downstairs)...will that increase or decrease my energy bill?

everything else being equal, it should decrease the bill compared to the same house with a larger single unit - the concept being that instead of having to run a huge unit that cools the entire house, you can set the thermostats differently - for instance, if you have a lot of guests over for a party and need the downstairs cooler to compnstae for all the extra body heat, doors opening all the time, etc; you can turn one thermostat down cooler while not having to blast arctic air upstairs at the same time.

It's impossible to say if your bill will be cheaper in the new house than your old house though. Differences in home sizes, number of windows facing the sun, amount of insulation, quality of construction, building orientation, SEER rating of the a/c units, etc between your old and new homes will all effect your bill.