Reply With Quote
Yeah, ASRock gives you a lot of features for the price. I have done my last several builds with ASUS or ASRock boards.
I'm running AMD A8-6600K Richland Quad-Core 3.9 GHz in my build.
On this mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813132135
Yeah, ASRock gives you a lot of features for the price. I have done my last several builds with ASUS or ASRock boards.
AsRock is independent of Asus now, they started off as a budget line from Asus but split a few years ago. I have completely lost faith in Asus the last couple of years. I have heard nothing but bad things about their tech support. If your board dies in warranty I hear they're absolutely forbidden from replacing it with a new board, so it sounds like the kind of musical chairs of hardware cycle you'd expect from Best Buy warranties. Their graphics cards have been terrible the last year or two also. For example on their DirectCU II R9 290/290x they just recycled the cooler they used in their GTX 780 Ti. It was a great cooler for the 780 Ti, but the 780 Ti has a bigger die than the R9 290x does, so 2 of the 5 heatpipes didn't contact the core at all in their R9 290/290x and one only did partially. For another example I have heard tons of complaints from owners of Strix 970s that they can't ever get the power up to 110% of TDP when the MSI, EVGA, and Gigabytes cards can do this consistently. Then Asus had a disastrous release of their ROG FreeSync monitor that would downclock to something like 90 Hz refresh rate when it supposed to be a 144 Hz monitor. I have also had bad personal experience with Asus, as my Nexus 7's screen died one month after the warranty was up. Asus, safe to say I'm pretty much a Gigabyte fanboy when it comes to motherboards now.
I haven't had any bad experiences with my ASUS boards, but I'm not building very high-end systems, either.
Seems like if you are going to have problems with a mobo (or memory), you'll have them right away, and you should be able to get refunded from Amazon, NewEgg, etc.
I've had a couple of pieces of hardware DOA and was able to return them.
Then again Gigabyte is no angel either. A few months ago it came out that their later revision B85 boards were drastically altering the power delivery and the quality of components in relation to the revision 1.0 boards to the point they were really new motherboards. And these boards would throttle on perfectly good locked i5/i7 that ran great on their 1.0 versions of the boards.
I wish EVGA made mainstream boards. They only do really high end , and I think overclocking on the CPU is ing re ed since it costs a lot more money to buy that highend board, that highend cooler, and then the unlocked CPU too when almost no AAA game struggles to hit a locked 60 fps with locked Sandy Bridge i5 and i7 from January 2011.
I have had a board die on me after a couple of years. It was a pretty high end Athlon board from Abit, but I had a new board within a week of contacting them for RMA and shipping my dead one. At least it was packaged like a new board and ran great for 3 more years until I replaced it once my Athlon started struggling to keep up.
When they die after that long, I usually suspect something overheated.
Here's the Plex page:
https://support.plex.tv/hc/en-us/art...rver-computer-
The 2000 Passmark is a very rough estimate. Yeah, if you hit it, you're sure to be able to transcode the stream, but there's a lot of other factors that can also help: SSE3 availability, bus bandwidth, available RAM, etc.
A 2.4Ghz Core 2 Duo only does roughly 1500 passmark, but they still recommend that for a 1080p stream.
I had an Asus mini-itx mobo we use for a server die recently exactly one month after purchase. Amazon kindly let us return it. We bought a Gigabyte replacement (a little more expensive) and haven't had a problem since.
It was our first Asus purchase in a while, so I'm gonna give them the benefit of the doubt, but buyer beware.
Maybe I've just been lucky with mine. I usually junk the stock CPU cooler and get a better one.
This issue of spin down is really bothering me. I thought I had a WD green, but turns out I have a Seagate Barracuda green.The cheap WD Greens' sleep mode is actually known to cause them to drop out of RAID arrays and cause rebuilding.
I'm not even sure if spin down is an issue for Storage Spaces in Windows 8-10. Still researching.
Hey Nono, it seems you know alot about server management...
do you also know how to install CloudLinux/lightspeed web server, MariaDB on a dedicated server? If you do can you help me lol ill pay you
How much do you know about linux?
Have my plate full with work now. I can help if you have specific questions, but that's about it.
I don't like the idea of my personal photos and videos being uploaded to the cloud. Who knows how that will get data mined. Plus, it would take forever to upload. I'd rather backup to external drive and take offsite.
I think in the next few years, we'll see the price of SSD's drop. Then, we can say goodbye to these unreliable spinning platters and have extremely reliable, low-powered, and quiet some servers.
all HDD's have considerably dropped in price in the last 5 years
I'm going a different direction now. Low-end hardware running NAS4Free. I'm still gonna use that Fractal Node 304 case tho -- it's very well designed.
What hardware, out of curiosity? Just old parts you had laying around?
I have an old ASUS mobo that I bought back in 2011 for a HTPC build.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131698
I only have 4GB of ram. Might bump that up to 8.
I only had a 200W power supply on that build, but with multiple SATA drives, I'll probably get at least a 350w PSU.
What else are you going to have on that build? AFAIK, that's a low TDP CPU, and including the mobo and RAM, I doubt it goes over 70W...
You have to calculate 10W per 3.5" HDD... even less if it's the green model. 200W might be enough, but depends if you add anything else like a video card.
EDIT: A DVD drive will add another 25W-30W, so if you do add one of those, you might need to bump the power requirements. Personally, I stopped getting that stuff. Use pendrives for everything.
Since this is going to be a dedicated NAS, im not adding a video card or an optical drive. Maybe I can get by with my 200w PSU?
The thing about that PSU is it came bundled with an old Thermaltake case and doesn't have many SATA connectors. Also, it's a small PSU and the new case looks like it's expecting a full size PSU.
I thought 7200 RPM HDDs were more like 5W in normal operation, but 20W when first spinning up. Please tell me an idle DVD drive isn't using 25W, I'll rip that er out of my system and buy a USB DVD burner to plug in the once a month I use the drive.
I'm with DarrinS, I can't wait to chuck the mechanical drives in a few years when SSDs hopefully get cheap. I was so happy to never have to look at a floppy, and then the same with CD/DVD.
On a related note I wish cases would stop putting 5.25" bays in. Having three 5.25" bays is the only thing I don't like about my Enthoo Pro. I can't think of anything to put in those bays. I have no desire to buy hotswap bays for my HDDs. an internal cardreader, I'd rather just keep using my USB one that I can plug in the 4-5 times a year I need to take photos off my camera. I don't need a fan controller since the one that comes with the case is good enough for me. I don't know of anything that can convert 3 5.25" bays into say a 140mm fan mount.
AFAIK, recent HDDs range from 5W to 10W, but you always gotta take the worst case scenario, that's why I told him to count them as 10W a pop. SSDs worst case is 7W.
Now the DVD/BluRay do use quite a bit more, specially when lightning up the laser on burns. The laser itself is half a watt, but you have a lot of other sensors going on there to make sure it burns ok.
Again, just going by worst-case scenario.
I just don't use DVD/BluRay drives anymore. I just use a USB3 pen drive. Way faster, doesn't have to be on all the time, etc.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
